Artist Feature May 2021: Laura Kass
Jewelry Inspired by Materials
This month we spoke with jewelry designer, Laura Kass, who draws inspiration from the uniqueness and beauty of the materials she uses — as well as from her customers.
Q: Let’s start at the beginning - can you tell us where you’re from and grew up and how you first started making jewelry?
I'm originally from New York City but grew up on Long Island, N.Y. I was fortunate to travel a fair amount as a teenager and young adult. I always enjoyed learning about foreign cultures. My interest in jewelry most likely began after many visits to European museums and gardens. They were definitely eye-opening experiences! So much beauty to take in and absorb.
Q: What attracted you to making jewelry and how did you develop your current style/jewelry-making aesthetic?
About fifteen years ago, I noticed that whenever I had a free moment, I would find myself headed to the local bead shop. I would simply go in and look at all the beautiful beads and gemstones. One day, a generous employee told me that since the store wasn't busy, she would teach me how to make jewelry. She gave me a thirty-minute instructional session and told me to go home and practice. I knew there was something special about the experience when I began the mile walk home. I actually didn't feel the ground underneath my feet during the entire walk - I was that excited! I developed my style and jewelry-making aesthetic slowly over the years with a lot of trial and error and experimentation. I knew I wanted to make something very special and unique. I also realized that I enjoyed customizing my pieces to ensure I had very happy customers.
Q: Do you have any favorite materials and how do you find some of the fine and precious materials you use? Yes, I definitely have some favorite materials. I think it's so important to begin the jewelry-making process with inspirational materials. Some of my favorites are: Muga Silk from India, which is the most rare silk in the world. It's naturally gold-colored & very strong. Argentium Silver is almost pure silver, hypoallergenic, recycled, and tarnish-resistant! Sterling Silver & 14kgold Thread from Japan. I find these very special materials by doing a lot of research and by asking suppliers many specific questions. I can be rather persistent about this.
Q: What do you love most about making jewelry and what is most challenging?
I love the actual jewelry-making process of having an idea in my head, and then seeing it come to fruition, no matter how long that takes. I also love seeing the jewelry on very happy customers!
Q: How do you come up with the designs for your pieces?
I am mainly inspired by the uniqueness and beauty of the materials I've sourced. I can usually just look at them and a design will come to mind. I also think about what would look great on my customers...so they inspire me as well!
Q: What do you think is most unique about your jewelry?
The most unique aspect of my jewelry is the combination and use of rare, often recycled and upcycled fine materials to create something truly special. I also mix many different kinds of materials and textures within the same piece.
Q: Can you walk us through your process and how long it takes to create each piece?
My process is a rather intuitive one. When I look carefully at the materials I've selected, I can envision or imagine a specific design in my mind. I will then experiment with various materials to realize this vision. It can take anywhere from an hour to ten or twelve hours to create.
Q: How is this process different for custom pieces?
The custom jewelry process begins by listening carefully to a customer describe what she's looking for. Sometimes, that will involve "listening between the lines" to discover exactly what she has in mind. I'll then look through my supplies until I find the perfect material match, and visualize the outcome - the customer wearing the piece of jewelry. I'll proceed when I'm happy with my choices, and after I've submitted a sample to the customer for approval.
Q: What would you most like to create if you had unlimited time & resources?
Great question! I would probably love to travel around the world, "treasure hunting" for even more intriguing and rare materials for my designs. I would also like to help the industry work towards a more ethical and sustainable future!
You can find out more about Laura and her jewelry on her website: www.laurakass.com, and follow her on instagram: @laura_kass_nyc and facebook: @laurakassnyc
